Taking your stairs to the next level

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We live in an older home and have undertaken various projects over the last few years ourselves, but have been putting off the stairs. They are currently fully carpeted and are so matted down and dirty-looking (despite steam cleaning). They are honey-coloured oak and I’m not a fan.

We have replaced the flooring on the main level with a darker stain and want the stairs to tie in. Could you please give us some guidance as to what's in and what we can do to update on a budget?

The foyer is the first thing you see when you enter your home, and a beautiful staircase can certainly add beauty to this space. Tackling stairs is not without its challenges, but is certainly worth the effort. How you proceed will depend on what is under the carpeting.

To prevent any confusion, let's begin with stair terminology.

Tread: The top or horizontal surface of a step.

Riser: The vertical part of a step that helps support the treads.

Stringer: supports the treads and risers. There are typically two visible stringers, one on either side.

Spindle/baluster: The vertical posts that hold up the handrail. There are typically two spindles per tread and are either made of wood or wrought iron.

Banister/railing/handrail: Runs parallel to the staircase, used to maintain balance.

Newel/post: A large post at the bottom and top of a staircase, and at turns used to anchor the handrail.

Although there is no denying the beauty of wood, too much can be overpowering. Having a balance of a wood and painted finish brings harmony and makes the wood that is there that much more beautiful. I recommend staining the treads and handrail the same colour. Paint the risers, stringers and spindles the same white as your trim colour. There is no hard-and-fast rule on the newel — it can go either way depending on your preference.

There is no easy way to remove the carpet and underpad other than to use a box cutter and brute strength. Wearing gloves and safety glasses is a must as the staples do tend to fly everywhere. Use plyers to remove the remaining staples and a pry bar for the carpet tacks.

If there are finished stairs underneath, and they are in decent condition, you can sand and restain. You will have to sand the finished coat down to the raw wood to allow the stain to penetrate. Start with a coarser grit sandpaper (50), moving your way up to finer grits (180). Always sand in the direction of the grain and wear a protective mask to avoid inhaling the dust. Use wood filler for any repairs and to fill the holes left by the staples. Sand using a fine grit. Use these same steps for the handrail. You may find that you have gaps around the tread where it meets the stringer. Fill with a nonshrinking spackling compound and sand when dry. Apply additional coats if necessary.

If you do not have finished steps, or if they are in terrible condition, you can cover with stair caps. This is a prefabricated hardwood stair cover that fits — or caps — over your existing stair.

Remove all the dust using a shop vac and tack cloth. To prevent streaking and blotching, apply wood conditioner prior to staining. This will ensure a beautiful, even stain.

Different species of wood take stain differently. I highly recommend testing the stain on a spare piece of wood. If you are staining existing stairs, ask your lumber yard for a small cut of the same species. You may require several coats to achieve the depth desired. Seal with several coats in a mid-to-high gloss (depending on the sheen of your floors).

Once the treads have been completed and cured, tape them off using Frog tape. Scuff the stringers, risers and spindles with a medium grit. Remove dust and prime with a stain-blocking primer (wood knots can eventually bleed through your finished coat). To avoid drips and runs, apply several thin coats.

Always read and follow manufacturer's instructions.

Andrea Colman is a colour consultant and principal designer and owner of Fine Finishes Custom Design Solutions. Send paint shade questions: [email protected]

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